![]() Clay soils will drop 0.5, and require more applications after airating. This will drop a sandy soil about 1.0 on the pH scale. PH= airify this fall and apply elemental sulfur at 5 lbs per 1,000 sq ft. Yes people, a foliar dissease could occur but at least you still have a plant under it, to mow off another day. This gives the lawn all night to perk or drain before the morning sun comes up and cooks the roots. Change your watering time to early evening. Clay soils will require more applications. Improve soil structure with a gypsum application at 40 lbs per 1,000 sq ft. Is your soil sandy or clay like?īrown patch= sign of too much water. You have some blue-green blades in a circle, with the tan blades in the middle. It also contains beneficial micro organisms which have been shown to reduce the severity of certain turf diseases. Ringer Lawn Restore is another good slow release fertilizer. Always try to avoid periods of feast or famine for the turf which occur when using cheap fertilizer or Trugreen. These slow release products release fertilizer uniformly over a relatively long period of time. They are probably the most expensive but are the best for the lawn. Polymer sulfur coated urea and Novex are the slowest release products that Lesco carries. If you are going to do the fertilizing yourself use slow release fertilizer. Make at least 2 or 3 passes over the lawn with the aerifier it won't hurt the grass to go over it multiple times. Aerify after a significant rainfall or irrigation event so that the tines can penetrate to their maximum depth. Aerifying in spring and fall will definitely help grow more roots. There is usually a lot of compacted soil around a new house. Many problems with new lawns have to do with the root system. New lawns usually take close to 2 years to mature. Pulling a 4-6" soil core is the best way to check for moisture in the root zone that's how a golf course superintendent determines if the turf needs to be watered. Get yourself a soil probe instead of using a soil moisture meter, they're not reliable. The first picture looks like drought stress. Let me know what your thoughts are and anything else I should try. 09 follow lescos 5-step recommended turf program.Aerate and over-seed and fertilize again in mid November/December.Finish off year with some starter fertilizer since its higher in phosphorus. ![]() I am learning too much not to try it myself. See attachments belowfor pictures of grass today. I have not picked up the datasheet yet, but here is what I was told. This lasted 4-6 weeks and I the yellowing started to come back. Added some Lesco 0.0.0 20%fe granular iron which seemed to help and the lawn is at least on par with others in the neiboorhood. Even though grass has been fairly healthy at least compared to last year it always has a yellowish tint to it. I am using a cheap soil moister meter to determine when to water and how much. I have been watering fairly deep at the rate of 3 times per week. True-Green has completed 4 or 5 treatments already this year with the latest being a post emergent weed control. This spring 08, grass came back fairly well. Called True-Green September of 07, they came out and treated and winterized. Watered to death the first couple of months, lots of weeds, crabgrass etc. I am looking for an overall healthier looking lawn and color.Ĭolumbus, Ohio (zone 6, I believe) New home, lawn was installed July of 07. Newbie to real lawn care so here is the scoop.
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